After five years, North Korea opened its borders to a small group of Western tourists this week. Travelers from various European countries became the first Western visitors to enter the country since it closed its borders at the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic. This was no ordinary vacation; there were no cell phones, no internet service, not even an ATM to use. Tourists entering the country had to accept various restrictions and were surprised by what they saw. They were closely monitored by the ever-present officials of the country, even having to ask for permission to visit the bathroom. This is the real face of North Korea, behind the media’s veil. A group of Western tourists embarked on a trip to North Korea for the first time in five years.

For the first time since 2020, tourists were allowed to enter the country; the highly mysterious nation had put itself into quarantine at the beginning of the outbreak. This had many wondering if Westerners would ever cross the border again. The group traveled to Rason in the northeast, over 800 kilometers from Pyongyang, passing through China to enter the country. Similar to previous trips to North Korea, travelers were rigorously checked, with pre-arranged visits to places like a beer factory, a newly built and well-stocked pharmacy, and a school. This was no ordinary vacation; there were no cell phones, no internet service, not even an ATM to use.

Tourists were given strict guidelines not to insult the country’s leaders, mock North Korea’s ideology, or judge its unusual and repressive lifestyle. Additionally, they were closely monitored and supervised by the ever-ready officials of the country.

These officials ensured that visitors did not violate the restrictions or deviate from the designated route. British YouTuber Mike O’Kennedy, 28, said, “I had to inform them every time I needed to use the restroom. Never had to do that anywhere in the world.” While a group of eight-year-old children happily sang to Western visitors in the city, a large projection screen showed dozens of ballistic missiles being launched and violently exploding on buildings in an unidentified metropolis. North Korea carefully maintains its image to the outside world with official photos released by the Kim family dynasty, which has ruled the country since 1948.

These photos depict bright, vibrant cityscapes that some visitors claim are very different from reality. Tourist Joe Smith, who has visited the country three times, remarked, “The roads are terrible, the sidewalks are shaky, and the buildings are strangely constructed,” stating that the images circulated by the media do not reflect the truth. A young man visiting the North Korea-Russia Friendship House was gifted a visitor book to sign.

The young tourist said, “I fell into a void and wrote something like ‘I wish for world peace.’ Later, my guide told me it was inappropriate. It made me paranoid.” Groups organizing curiosity tourism visits to North Korea, while under strict scrutiny, claim that cultural exchange benefits ordinary residents of the despotic regime with little knowledge about the world beyond their borders.